Emergency SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS In an emergency or sudden disaster you need food and an easy way to get it. You cannot count on anyone helping you or the government coming to your rescue. Some disasters will be large scale and roads, bridges and communications may be blocked for a long time. I have worked for utility companies and even after a small earthquake they are predicting 6-10 weeks for a temporary fix. You should have some food in the house or car if you are reading this and are prepared if not you will need to get your own. It is a good idea to ration your stored food as well since you really do not know how long it will take to get more or help of any kind. Hurricanes, floods, storms,earthquakes and tidal waves are localaized events. Yellowstone National Park exploding will not be localized or meteors or comets hitting the earth as some predict on the Mayan 12-21-2012 calender event. These disasters are real and can
happen. Even Mount Saint Helens, which was a relatively minor volcanic eruption, forced people to stay in doors many miles away, blocked roads, and had
enough dust and ash that planes and helicopters did not fly much even for
rescue work. The dust and ash forced people to stay indoors for two weeks. The stores were closed! The dust in the
streets prevented travel.When a bigger event happens roads and bridges will be
out as well. If you are fortunate to live in the country then you will be able to find food much easier. Even in a cities there are small areas of trees in undeveloped areas and lots of rabbits and small animals inhabit them. The best way to capture food is snare. A snare naturally implies an entanglement; and for this reason the term is applied to those contrivances which secure their victims by the aid of strings or nooses. Inventions of this kind are among the most useful and successful to the person needing the food and fur the animals will bring to you and your family. There are numerous varieties but all are simple to learn and set up. The " Twitch-up " is a very efficient trap when carefully set in the low underbrush, awaiting its prey. Snares are among the most interesting and ingenious of the traps, besides being the most sure and easiest to build. They possess one advantage over all other ways to trap; they can be made in the woods, and out of the commonest material. If the survivalist supplies himself with a small, sharp hatchet, and a strong, sharp edged pocket knife or sheath knife those are the only tools required to make snares. You should also provide yourself with a coil of fine brass or copper “motor wire," or a quantity of horse-hair nooses (which will be described later on), a small ball of tough twine and a pocket full of bait, such as apples, corn, oats and the like, depending upon the game he intends to trap. With these, your requirements are complete, and you have the material for a score of snares, which will do wonderfully if properly constructed. Perhaps the most common of the noose traps is the ordinary quail snare. Diagrams for the snares and bird traps are at the bottom of the page. QUAIL SNARE, Which forms the subject of our first illustration? This consists of a series of nooses fastened to a strong twine or wire. They may be of any number, and should either consist of fine wire, horse-hair, or fine fish-line. If of wire, common brass or "motor wire," found in nearly all hardware stores. Each noose should be about four inches in diameter. To make it, a small loop should be twisted on one end of the wire, and the other passed through it, thus making a slipping loop, which will be found to work very easily. It is important that the wire be free from ANY kinks and needs to be smooth. The wire loop needs to slide easily over the wire. If the wire is bent the survival kit recommends you have a leatherman emergency tool and this can be used to cut the wire and straighten it. The animal will put its head or body in the loop and it must slide freely enough to slip and tighten around the animal whether bird, rabbit, squirrel or other game. Fifteen or twenty of these nooses should be made, after which they should be fastened either to a stout string or wire, at distances of about four inches from each other, as seen in our illustration. Each end of the long string supporting the nooses should then be fastened to a wooden peg. After selecting the ground, the pegs should be driven into the earth, drawing the top string tightly, as seen in the illustration below. The ground around the nooses should then be sprinkled with corn, oats, and the like, and the trap is set. As a general thing, it is advisable to set it in a neighborhood where quails are known to abound; and as they run all over the ground in search of food, they are sure to come across the bait strewn for them, and equally as certain to be caught and entangled in the nooses. The writer has known as many as six quails to be thus caught at a time, on a string of only twelve nooses. Partridges and woodcock will occasionally be found entangled in the snare and it will sometimes happen that a rabbit will be caught by the device. Hoop Nooses. This is a variation from the above, the noose being attached to a barrel hoop and the latter being fastened to two stout posts, which are firmly driven into the ground. By their scattering the bait inside the hoop, and adjusting the loops, the contrivance is complete. This is a very old and approved method. In the initial (T) at the head of this section we give another suggestion for a noose trap. The cross pieces are tacked to the top of the upright, and a noose suspended from each end, the bait sprinkled around the post as seen. We have mentioned horse-hair nooses as being desirable (if you have a horse or find enough hair of other animals to braid into a small cord), and they are commonly used as a snare material for survival ,but it takes a considerable amount of time to make them, and the wire as well, we recommend the wire in preference if you have found or stored the wire as we recommend. We will give a few simple directions, however, for the making of the horse-hair nooses, in case you don’t have the wire and desire to use them instead. Select long, stout hairs from the tail of any horse, (I would
recommend that it be a good tempered horse), take one of the hairs and double
it in the middle, hold the double between the thumb and fore-finger of the left
hand, letting the two ends hang from the under side of the thumb, and keeping
the hairs between the thumb and finger, about a third of an inch apart. Now twist the two hairs toward the end of the finger, letting them twist
together as the loop emerges on the upper side of the thumb. This can also be done with the inner core of the parachute cord. Wire is best since animals cannot chew through it, but if you are not prepared with wire giving you ideas of what can be used. A little practice will overcome what at first seems very difficult. To keep the two hairs between the fingers at the right distance of separation, and at the same time to twist them and draw the loop from between the fingers as they are twisted, seems quite a complicated operation. But when mastered by practice, the twisting of five nooses a minute will be an easy matter. When the entire length of the hairs is twisted, the ends should be cut off even and then passed through the small loop at the folded end. The noose is then ready to be fastened to the main string of support. The fine brass wire is also extensively used, it is very strong and slips easily, besides doing away with the trouble of twisting the loops, which to a beginner might be a difficult and tedious operation. We recommend the wire, and shall allude to it chiefly in the future, although horse-hair, strong string, or parachute cord may be substituted whenever desired. There is another modification of the foregoing quail-traps commonly used by professional trappers of many countries. A low hedge is constructed, often hundreds of feet in length small openings are left here and there, in which the nooses are placed, as in the picture. The bait is strewn around on both sides of the hedge, and the grouse or other game, on its discovery, are almost sure to become entangled SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS. The wire is preferred in all the snares listed and you will find it the easie. We will give a few simple directions, however, for the making of the horse-hair nooses, in case our readers might desire to use them instead or if it is in an emergency and disaster has struck already with you unprepared and need to use the available materials. If you choose you can use the inner cords of your 550lbs parachute cord listed in your personal survival kit. Select long, stout hairs from the tail of any horse, (we would recommend that it be a good tempered horse), take one of the hairs and double it in the middle, hold the double between the thumb and fore-finger of the left hand, letting the two ends hang from the under side of the thumb, and keeping the hairs between the thumb and finger, about a third of an inch apart. Now proceed to twist the two hairs toward the end of the finger, letting them twist together as the loop emerges on the upper side of the thumb. A little practice will overcome what at first seems very difficult. To keep the two hairs between the fingers at the right distance of separation, and at the same time to twist them and draw the loop from between the fingers as they are twisted, seems quite a complicated operation; and so it will be found at first. But when once mastered by practice, the twisting of five nooses a minute will be an easy matter. When the entire lengths of the hairs are twisted, the ends should be cut off even and then passed through the small loop at the folded end. The noose is then ready to be fastened to the main string of support. The fine brass wire is also extensively used, it is very strong and slips easily, besides doing away with the trouble of twisting the loops, which might be a very difficult and tedious operation. We recommend the wire, and shall all refer to it chiefly in the future, although the horse-hair, or string made nooses may be substituted whenever desired. There is another modification of the quail-traps commonly utilized by professional trappers of many countries. A low hedge is constructed, often hundreds of feet in length small openings are left here and there, in which the nooses are placed or barriers can be constructed on game trails of rock and brush which funnels the game to a smaller opening and is baited if you have bait, if not then hope they become snared as they try to go through the narrowed trail line of snares as pictured above .The bait is strewn around on both sides of the hedge, and the grouse or other game, on its discovery, are almost sure to become entangled The use of snares will help you to feed your
family in any one of the coming disasters. It will help but eventually
you will want to know how to find bigger game like deer and elk. Deer
survive even in dessert areas and are clever and takes knowledge to find and
kill. If you look for tracks and find a trail with them or a source of water place the traps close to the water where the animals drink and on trails where they narrow especially if you do not have foliage for herbivores to eat baiting the trap or meat for carnivores. Shiny bits of tinfoil can attract curious animals or just place the trap where they have to pass over it going to water. Trap placement is like hunting you need to have some experience at it but common sense will help you. The figure 4 traps are very easy to make and are a variation of the traps the indians used to make. The fourth picture down is of a bird trap and not really a snare. It is tremendously effective at trapping birds but should only be used in a survival situation. It is simply baiting the fish hooks in your survival kit with something that would interest a bird. This can be berries, corn, or worms etc or even something shiny but when the bird swallows the baited hook ( just like fishing) the bird is trapped and cannot fly away. You will catch birds this way but the trap should be checked often one because it is cruel and two because you will catch more if you take the flopping birds off the hooks. If it is a case of survival it is better you than the bird. This system is the same as if you had a stream and were baiting the hooks for catching fish. In some states that is legal others not but when just trying to live I would go with surviving and bringing home some food for the family. This is a case of if the game warden catches you then you are actually in luck. That means some one found you.
These foods will store for a long time and you do not have to worry about them spoiling if you seal them in the plastic water proof 5 gallon paint cans. These are either new or washed out and very clean. Line them with a trash bag and a twist tie on the top to seal them. Beef Jerky is lightweight and stores a long time 50 pounds of rice 50 pounds of dried beans 50 lbs of sugar 50 lbs of flour Cans of tuna or cans of chicken off the bone ( packaged like tuna sold at Sam's club) Peanut butter (Skippy of Jiff) the oil does not separate as readily at least four packages of yeast foil wrapped kept in the freezer so that you can make bread with the flour or biscuits. minimum of 20 gallons of water storage much more if you have the room. The collapsible water storage containers will help with that and can be filled quickly if there is warning. honey5 lbs. or more since it does not spoil and works with cooking and gives almost instant energy. If some one is passed out with exhaustion and honey is given to them they will almost immediately revive. Dried soup mix measured out and bagged for the number in the party per meal. It could be a major staple for a while. Dried fruits of almost any kind. They can be home dried easily in a dryer or purchased in bulk food stores. Canned beans and corn are both good and can store for up to years. It is a good idea to rotate your stock. Canned meats. You can get canned spam, canned ham, chicken and even tuna fish will store for years and will give you the protein you need to survive. Three ounces of protein per person per day will keep you going. Jars of peanut butter will last several years as well some like Skippy and Jiff do not separate the oils easily but if they do just stir them up when you open them. The breakfast bars at the supermarket are small and have enough energy and vitamins to keep you going and store well. Oatmeal is good and can be made with just warm water over a candle or old style oil lamp with only a little water. a gallon of vegetable oil for cooking. You will need at least one skillet to cook with and a 3-4 quart covered pot at a minimum to prepare meals. I would recommend the old style of coleman lantern with the white gas fuel. This fuel can power either the lantern or the coleman type stove a two burner would be great. The vegetable oil can also be used to lubricate the leather washer on the pump for the stove and lantern if it has been sitting long enough to dry out and not pump up the lantern or stove. I would recommend two gallons of the coleman fuel or white gas. That will last you through many meals and be a great source of heat in the winter. Lots of candles. Candles make a great decoration but in an emergency they provide light, heat, you can melt snow with them or boil small amounts of water and sterilize it. Waterproof matches and a butane lighter like for your charcoal with the long tip. If you do not have the room for the coleman stove you can buy cans of sterno a solid fuel in a can that will heat food and provide warmth for you as well. It is small and easily stored in small places. Bag of matchlight charcoal briquets for your barbeque if you have one you can cook what food remains in your freezer with it as it begins to thaw. Cooked food stays good longer. You will need the same various cooking utensils a large knife, spatula, a couple of big spoons and a can opener are a minimum. A few dish towels and some soap are good you will still need to wash dishes. If water is not available sand is good, if you have a sand box, or paper or plastic dishes till you can get a source of uncontaminated water. Personally I would think that a month of food is a minimum for you to store. The food should be rotated with your regular food so it will store longer. Cans are generally good for 3-5 years but watch for dented cans and odors when you open them.
        2012 Surviving Disasters Disaster Preparation 2012 Disaster Survival long term survival plan 2012 Contact US links and Privacy page 2012 Survival Preparation and the Mayan calendar 2012 Finding emergency water for surviving in your home or outdoors 2012 Survival Kits personal, auto, and home with first aid kits Topics that will be discussed on these pages include 2012
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you buy the book how to build a permanent portable one in your home,
how to build snares and traps,first aid kits and personal survival kit
for the upcoming Mayan 2012 disaster of 12.21.2012 | Before the disaster strikes be ready with your emergency candles for light and heat, that you can make easily and cheaply. (They can be cleverly disguised as decorations till you need them using this book) Discover How To Make Your Own Candles
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